The farther away visitors get from the South Pacific's international airports, the more likely they are to find an island and a way of life that have escaped relatively unscathed by the coming of Western ways -- remnants of "old" Polynesia. Although it is quickly developing (the country's top two resorts are here) and already is one of the region's hottest new destinations, this is still true of Aitutaki.

Lying 225km (140 miles) north of Rarotonga, Aitutaki is often referred to as "the Bora Bora of the Cook Islands" because it consists of a small, hilly island at the apex of a triangular barrier reef dotted with skinny flat islands. This reef necklace encloses one of the South Pacific's most beautiful lagoons, which appears at the end of the flight up from Rarotonga as a turquoise carpet spread on the deep blue sea. The view from the air is memorable.

The uninhabited, coconut-studded small islands out on the reef have some of the South Pacific's most beautiful white-sand beaches on their lagoon sides, while the surf pounds on the other. They're perfect for picnics and snorkeling expeditions, which are Aitutaki's prime attractions.

The central island, only 21 sq. km (8 sq. miles) in area, is dotted with the coconut, pineapple, banana, and tapioca plantations that are worked by most of the island's 2,100 residents. Aitutaki is a major supplier of produce and seafood to Rarotonga. Much of the fresh reef fish and tropical lobsters consumed at Rarotonga's restaurants is harvested here.

The administrative center, most of the shops, and the main wharf are on the west side of the island at Arutanga village, where a narrow, shallow passage comes through the reef. Trading boats cannot get through the pass and must remain offshore while cargo and passengers are ferried to land on barges. A network of mostly unpaved roads fans out from Arutanga to Viapai and Tautu villages on the east side and to the airport on a flat hook at the northern end of the island.